ABS filament is a flexible materials that is an excellent choice for once you want your 3D-printed elements to be sturdy and heat-resistant. Discover ways to print this materials like a Professional on this in-depth information.
Up to date on April 18, 2023
by
MatterHackers
What’s ABS filament? ABS is likely one of the mostly used and versatile supplies accessible in 3D printing at the moment. There are just a few additional issues to contemplate when printing with ABS as in comparison with PLA, however the additional hurdles are properly price it for the improved power, post-processing capabilities, and temperature resistance of ABS.
What’s ABS?
ABS or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene is a standard thermoplastic. ABS filament is likely one of the hottest forms of 3D printing filament on account of its versatility and power, and is commonly used for injection molding and merchandise like Lego, devices, sports activities tools and extra.
Nice initiatives for ABS:
- Automobile inside elements – telephone mounts, cup holders
- Cosplay – sand completely clean and acetone-weld massive elements collectively
- Robots – sturdy sufficient to deal with weight and movement
- 3D Printers – Try the Voron, made doable with ABS elements.
Our Advisable ABS Filaments:
- MH Construct Sequence – Low value, nice for beginning out.
- PRO Sequence – Made within the USA, industry-leading dimensional accuracy.
- Fillamentum – Prime quality materials with unimaginable colours.
Selecting the Proper ABS
There are lots of completely different manufacturers, colours, and even composites made by mixing different supplies or components with normal ABS resin. Relying on the precise wants of your mission, the one of many following supplies might be the best choice.
MH Construct ABS
- Value: $18.21 in bulk
- Greatest Use: Common function, nice beginning materials for settings improvement, numerous coloration choices.
PRO Sequence ABS
- Value: $52 per kg
- Options: Made within the USA (like all PRO Sequence), ±0.02mm diameter tolerance, excessive capability spools accessible.
Ultimaker ABS
- Value: $50 per 750g spool
- Options: Nice compatability with Ultimaker 3D printers through NFC chip for automated materials recognition.
- Notice: Solely accessible in 2.85mm
eSUN ABS
- Value: $23 per kg
- Options: Common function, inexpensive materials accessible in quite a lot of colours.
Fillamentum ABS
- Value: $45 per 750g spool
- Options: Unimaginable coloration choices, premium-quality materials manufactured within the Czech Republic. Solely choice for Translucent ABS in our catalog.
3DXTech Flame Retardant PC ABS
- Value: $68 per kg
- Options: PC is a superb materials, however tougher to print with than ABS so this compound gives the most effective of each worlds. It is also Flame Retardant, making this materials an excellent alternative for initiatives that have to explicitly resist harm from fireplace.
Getting that first layer proper
As with all 3D printing, getting the primary layer down is an important a part of the print. All the things else is constructed upon this (actually) and it is the place most new 3D printer customers have points honing their expertise. Do not feel dangerous when you’re struggling to get excellent mattress leveling, everybody has to be taught it. For those who need assistance particularly on mattress leveling, try our article. Listed below are the important thing factors:
- You want the print mattress to be stage.
- For those who see some areas of your first layer are too excessive whereas others are too low, re-do your mattress leveling.
- You want the extruder to be homed to the right peak from the mattress. (Z-offset)
- For those who complete first layer is equally too excessive or too low throughout all the print, modify your Z-Offset.
- You want an excellent adhesive to help your ABS in sticking to the mattress.
- And naturally, ensuring that your extruder/hotend is heated to the proper temperature.
Lego bricks produced from ABS
Greatest Mattress Setup for ABS
So as to print with ABS, you want a headed mattress. The beneficial mattress temperature for ABS is 110°C. Most fashionable 3D printers can attain this temperature, but when yours can not, it is best to be capable to get away with 90°C.
Notice: If that is your first time having your print mattress this scorching, watch out as these temperatures can burn pores and skin in a short time!
The perfect construct floor for ABS is PEI, accessible both clean or with a powder coated floor for additional mechanical adhesion. It’s also possible to print on glass with adhesion promoters like Magigoo or a regular glue stick.
As with all 3D printing, mattress leveling and Z-Offset are essential to success. ABS doesn’t have any particular wants for Z-Offset, so if you’re utilizing the identical construct plate as different supplies you probably is not going to have to regulate this setting. Professional Tip: Your print mattress might be a barely completely different form when totally heated to ABS print temperatures, so all the time carry out your mattress leveling at temperature to get the most effective outcomes.
Enclose Your Printer for the Greatest Outcomes
The trick to have ABS elements keep on the mattress throughout a print and never cut up after being printed is to permit the printed half cool as slowly as doable, and as uniformly as doable. Right here are some things to bear in mind to realize these targets:
- Little to no layer cooling – begin along with your half cooling fan utterly off.
- Enclosed construct space – preserve a secure and excessive ambient temperature round your half after it has been printed.
There are lots of totally enclosed 3D printers accessible at the moment, along with enclosures accessible as equipment for a lot of machines that don’t come totally enclosed. Moreover, try our video beneath on constructing a customized, low-cost enclosure for any printer that may allow you to begin printing with ABS instantly.
In case your first layer isn’t sticking:
- Be sure that the mattress is stage.
- Be sure that the mattress is scorching sufficient – we suggest 110°C.
- Make it possible for the ambient temperature of the print setting isn’t too scorching or chilly (or else modify accordingly).
- Ensure you put the adhesive on the mattress.
- Be sure that the print head is shut sufficient to make a pleasant first layer.
- Ensure you run the extruder sufficient earlier than your print begins so there may be filament going onto the mattress throughout all the first layer. In MatterControl you may add a skirt and calibrate how a lot materials you wish to extrude to make sure the hotend is totally primed.
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PEI is an effective way to print ABS. It makes an excellent shiny backside layer and the heated mattress ensures that your elements keep good and flat.
For extra in depth data relating to ABS mattress adhesion try this text we wrote for extra detailed steering.
Getting the temperature proper
When working with a brand new roll of filament for the primary time, we typically like to start out out printing at about 230°C after which adjusting the temperature up or down by 5 diploma increments till we get the standard of the print and the power of the half to be in good steadiness with one another. This temperature vary is a generalization, so please reference the precise filament you may have when creating your print settings.
FYI – there’s a temperature tower characteristic construct into MatterControl so you may create customized temperature towers to help in your print setting improvement.
What to search for
If the temperature is simply too excessive:
You will notice extra strings between the separate elements of your print and chances are you’ll discover that the extruder leaks out a number of plastic whereas shifting between separate areas of the print. If this occurs it is best to attempt to incrementally decrease the temperature by 5 levels till the extruder isn’t leaking a lot materials.
ABS being printed too scorching can produce a tough texture, in case your elements really feel and/or look tough, strive reducing the temperature and see if that impact is diminished.
Typically you should have a fabric that’s merely much less viscous than ABS and can leak extra even at decrease temperatures. We suggest you evaluation your retraction settings and presumably tune this particularly.
If the temperature is simply too chilly:
You’ll both see that the filament isn’t sticking to the earlier layer and you might be getting a tough floor, or you’ll get a component that’s not sturdy and could be pulled aside simply. In both case, it is best to enhance the temperature by 5 levels and take a look at once more till you get good line segments on each layer and have a powerful half when carried out printing.
A print gone chilly. Test your retraction and warmth for clear prints.
Altering filament
When switching ABS colours:
- Whereas the extruder is chilly set the warmth to 120°C and watch for it to warmth up.
- Whenever you attain 120°C take away the present filament from the extruder. You might be able to again it out by hand or chances are you’ll have to reverse the extruder.
- If you’re having hassle eradicating the filament, enhance the temperature to 180°C and take a look at once more.
- Clear the extruder gear and blow out any particles from the extruder entrance.
- Enhance the warmth and cargo the brand new filament usually.
- Run the brand new coloration by way of the extruder till it runs clear and the brand new coloration is all that’s popping out of the extruder. If you’re switching from a darkish coloration (akin to black) to a light-weight coloration (like white or pure) chances are you’ll need to extrude for a couple of minutes to be you certain haven’t any darkish contamination.
- Print one thing that you do not care if it has bits of the earlier coloration in it, or run the extruder for a number of minutes. It could take as a lot as 10 to fifteen minutes of extrusion earlier than you may have faith that there will not be darkish materials blended with lighter materials.
Notice: We beneficial eradicating the filament when tender quite than when totally melted so that there’s a decrease chance of depositing melted materials onto the extruder drive gear or leaving meterial excessive up the soften chamber entrance. Each of which might trigger jamming and are exhausting to wash out. Smooth elimination additionally helps be sure that you get every little thing out of the extruder tip.
What to do if issues go improper
There are just a few key issues to verify when your prints aren’t working. However earlier than we take a look at options we have to have a quick description of your signs.
“I can not get the primary layer to stay.”
- Be sure that the extruder is on the proper peak. Regulate the restrict change or extruder to 0 peak
- Be sure that the print mattress is stage. Stage the mattress.
- Ensure you’re printing on the proper temperature and that your mattress is the proper temperature.
- Test the ambient temperature of your setting. If it’s too chilly or too scorching outdoors, your print can fluctuate drastically!
“The half has dangerous inner layers and prime surfaces.”
- Test the extrusion temperature (chances are you’ll want to extend it by 5 diploma bumps).
- Test the filament pressure.
- Clear the filament drive gear.
- Lower your pace.
- Be sure that your half is correctly cooled.
“The surface edges of my elements have numerous little bumps on them.”
- Be sure that your printer is getting sufficient information. If printing from a pc, be sure that the pc isn’t too busy to feed the printer instructions. If the printer is pausing it’s normally as a result of pc being too busy.
- Print from the SD card. On some printers you may attempt to print from the SD card. This usually helps the printer have sufficient information to run extra easily.
Nonetheless, do not be too fast to imagine the issue is in your ABS. With the proper settings and endurance hobbyists have succeeded in printing all kinds of supplies a lot of which have very low viscosity. It is best to be capable to get usable elements even with some decrease high quality filament.
“Tall sections of my prints look melted or squished collectively.”
- Activate “Cooling”. In case your printer has a fan it is best to allow “Cooling” within the print settings.
- Get a small fan. In case your printer doesn’t have an built-in fan it is best to look into getting a small desk fan. This may also help dramatically with tall sections of your print or when “bridging” (printing prime layers that span gaps).
My half is curling up and about.”
- Just be sure you have an excellent quantity of adhesive on the mattress and that you just’re making use of a recent layer with each print. As well as, activate a brim. Having a brim that extends out a bit helps give the half a big base to work with, in addition to having extra to stick to.
“My printer is not going to extrude any materials.”
- Be sure that your scorching finish is getting scorching. Test to verify the recent finish is heating in any respect. If it isn’t, it’s good to have your printer serviced. It’s probably that you’ve got a free connection, or your electronics have been fried (assuming the printer continues to be linked and responding to your host software program).
- Clear the drive gear and modify pressure. The very first thing we’re going to do is clear the filament touching drive gear and be sure that we’ve got correct pressure in opposition to the filament. Often improper pressure or a clogged drive gear will make the print look extra like the image we’ve got for low temperature filament, but it surely typically does forestall extrusion all collectively. Clear the pinch wheel with a wire brush, and ensure your pressure is nice and strong (an excessive amount of also can forestall extrusion and is extra widespread with direct drives [the motor is directly connected to the drive gear] however much less widespread with geared drives).
- Take away the present filament. It could be that you’ve got a small particle in your extruder tip jamming the plastic. Use the change filament approach described above to tug out any particles which are within the extruder tip.
- Test for and take away jams between the extruder and scorching finish. That is essentially the most excessive sort of drawback as a result of now it is time to take issues aside. Typically warmth can creep up the filament within the extruder and trigger a bulge that then cools and prevents any additional extrusion. That is normally on the junction between the extruder and scorching finish. Take off the extruder and take away all of the ABS you may (chances are you’ll want the recent finish scorching to get all the fabric out.) If you cannot get out all of the filament by pulling, chances are you’ll have to attempt to drive it down by way of the recent finish. We normally use a small allen wrench. If this fails you may attempt to drill out the extruder or scorching finish however chances are you’ll want to interchange elements. You’ll want to take precautions in opposition to being shocked or burned. If you’re not certified to do that work, discover somebody who’s, quite than danger damage.
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Sincerely,
The MatterHackers Crew
